Jamie Wei Huang has fully fastened our attention with her latest collection, which features the trademark buckles, oversized pockets and androgynous elements she champions. There’s the feeling that if you put on a Jamie Wei Huang garment, you would stand up straight, pulled up by a sense of control, purpose and strength.
While Spring/Summer collections can present us with softness and fragility, a romantic flush of colour, Huang proved true to her style and retained the certain hardness that her designs resonate. There was a touch of lightness in colour swimming next to the defined shapes but the strength is still what rang out. It was like a warrior tucking a single flower inside a pocket; the beauty was present but fenced by a kind of anti-beauty.
Skin was revealed in intriguing ways: be it slits in the skirts, tops buckled at the neck giving a triangle space between fabric and skin, or a leather bandeau and slouchy trouser look – which seemed a more dominant cut away to the urban inspiration of the collection.
Huang seized on texture with intense blue jackets and jumpers, candy-floss pink ruffled tops and a slicing of leather. A memorable piece combined a leather knee-length skirt with a stripe of electric blue on either side, an update on a classic style, a play-down of the sultry look it suggests perhaps.
Fashion as a language that explores the inner self is the core of Jamie Wei Huang’s work; the language her latest collection speaks to us is rich in its non-conforming and quiet-explosion tongue. It says beautiful with a defined edge and a spirit of fierce determination.